Where To Buy Amp Tubes BETTER
During the Fifties, tubes were used in every consumer electronic product, including radios, TVs, and audio gear, but by 1978 the transition to solid-state was in full force, and tubes were found mainly in some guitar amps and high-end audio components.
where to buy amp tubes
EL34: The Electro-Harmonix EL34 is a good choice that sounds great and is reliable. JJ EL34 tubes are very reliable and sound good too, but be careful to get EL34 tubes and not E34L tubes unless your amp was specifically designed for them. Tung Sols are good but a bit more expensive. Winged Cs are much more expensive, and since they are not being manufactured any longer, most that are still available come from the last production run and are of questionable quality.
We specialize in audio vacuum tubes and accessories. More than 15,000 hand selected tube sets for the most popular amps ship to you from our Berlin, Germany based warehouse. If you need a custom set or special matching please contact us - supplying customers with individually selected components is a key part of our business.
Only the highest quality and most consistent vacuum tubes earn the MESA Engineering seal of approval. All MESA tubes offer unsurpassed consistency and reliability for ANY tube amplifier, and certainly MESA amplifiers!
We specialize in vacuum tubes and offer high quality tubes, sockets, capacitors, and other parts of manufacturer JJ Electronic. Audio tubes for any amplifier: from high end home audio to classic guitar amps. In 1994, JJ Electronic started with the production of three types of tubes. Nowadays, JJ electronic offers an assortment of more than 40 types of vacuum tubes. In 1999, capacitors and tube amplifiers were added to the JJ Electronic manufacturing program.NEW: JJ Electronic introduces New tube 6SL7, 6SN7 and 12BH7-A For companies that are registered for VAT in the EUOur company is VAT registered in EU. VAT ID is: SK1078747494. We can make VAT free (VAT excluded) invoices, for VAT registered companies in EU. If you are a company (subject to VAT), please select payment only by bank transfer.
Western Electric engineered, designed, produced or experimented with over 785 different tubes from 1913 - 1988. Many of these tubes were superb sounding audio tubes that are still in very high demand today. These tubes include the 101D, 205D/E, 211D/E, 274A/B, 300A/B, 310A, 348A, 350B, 396A, 417A, 421A and 437A, just to name a few. Tube World stocks one of the most extensive inventories of WE tubes on the planet.
No, that is not a misprint. We actually have Twelve Million vacuum tubes in our inventory. So you can stop wandering around the Internet! We are the only tube supplier you will ever need. Even our competitors buy from us, especially those hard to find tubes. We have them all, in stock, and we have them at the best prices! Try us! Give us a call today at 1-800-326-4140 and find out for yourself why we are #1.
We keep both NOS (New Old Stock) and factory-new tubes in our warehouses. The majority of our orders ship within twenty-four hours. After your order is received, we hand test each vacuum tube TWICE to make sure it is exactly up to the manufacturer's specs before it is ever sent to you. Nothing leaves our warehouse without this service! Our customer loyalty is legendary and for good reason. We do exactly as we promise and we stand behind our customers 100%
We stock radio and vacuum tubes for every application from all major manufacturers including RCA, GE, Sylvania, Raytheon, Tungsol, and Amperex. If you are looking for a hard to find vacuum tube, we can nearly guarantee that it is in our inventory and available today!.
Okay... I know this one's not really a "question" but we get it so often that it needs to be addressed anyway. Many times when a piece of tubed equipment is noisy, the cause is a bad connection between a tube and the socket, not a noisy tube. In fact, the majority of tubes we have returned to us for warranty replacement, are not noisy at all!
Remember: Tube sockets are not highly reliable connectors! If the sockets are dirty or not tight enough, or if the pins are slightly "thinner" than your original tubes, or have a little grime on them, it can cause one or more pins be unable to make solid contact. This can result in noise.
Power tubes like EL34's and KT88's are good for about 2500 hours or more. But may go longer in an amplifier with a conservative design. Small signal tubes with numbers like 12AX7, 12AU7, and 6922, and rectifier tubes like 5AR4 may go 10,000 hours. So you get years and years of enjoyment. Using a tube tester may or may not tell you if you need a replacement. The best approach is to buy a new set of tubes, and install them. If they don't sound a lot better, put in the old ones and suck every bit of life out of them.
Many vintage tubes were labeled with ink designed to fall off easily. So do not touch it! If you get it wet at all, it may go away right in front of your eyes, and just shipping and pulling it in/out of the box can damage the logo. If the box is an original vintage box, open it carefully using a butter knife under the flap. The ends can tear right off easier than you would believe and some people prize the boxes.
We recommend not pulling tubes in and out a bunch of times to compare tubes. The best way to do this, if you really have to, is spend a day with one tube and another day with the next tube. We know it is tempting to pull them in and out a lot 'cause it's fun, but when you do, you may loosen the tube socket if you go in and out a few hundred times. Tubes, sockets, and tube gear are very durable. But use common sense. In addition, tubes need to be left undisturbed to sound their best.
Many European tubes in the 12AU7, 12AT7, and 12AX7 families may flash brightly when you first power up your gear. This flash is normal. It is also normal for the intensity of the flash to vary from tube to tube, and the flash intensity may also vary or even go away as the tubes age.
When we match tubes, we are most interested in how the tube "idles" or draws current. Think of a power amp with four tubes as a car engine with four carburetors. If there is an idle adjustment for each "carb" that would be the same as an individual bias adjustment screw for each tube. If there is only one bias screw for each two tubes, you need a matched pair of tubes. One bias screw for each four tubes, you need the tubes in matched quads. If each tube has it's own bias screw, or if you have a PrimaLuna or Mystere amplifier with Adaptive Autobias, there is no need for matched tubes, though it certainly doesn't hurt.
Bias voltage is actually negative voltage applied to the grid to bring the tube to the idle point desired. That idle point is the one we read on a meter. Some manufacturers give you a specific point like 50 millivolts, or 50 milliamps. Make sure you use the right reading! Some may give you a range of say 40 to 50 or 55 to 65. The higher the number the tube is idling at, the hotter the tube is running. Running tubes with a hotter idle does NOT guarantee the best results. We always recommend biasing your amp to the setting specified in your amp's manual or maybe a little lower, but never higher. The engineers who designed your amp chose that setting for a reason.
When installing fresh power tubes, you have to remember that your old tubes likely required less negative bias to maintain the same idle current as they aged. Before plugging in your fresh set of power tubes, you may want to adjust the bias the so the reading on your meter is lower before plugging in the new tubes!
This is a very important step. If you have the bias setting turned up too high (technically the negative bias is too low, causing your meter to read a higher number), it may let the tubes get away from you once the amp is on. In some amps, this can result in a burnt fuse. or worse yet, a burnt resistor. If your amp uses a cathode or auto-biasing circuit, then you don't have to sweat this step, but if you adjust bias manually it is very important.
You cannot effectively match power tubes on a typical tube tester. Tube testers never applied the amount of voltage necessary to get accurate measurements of power tubes. In fact, there are only a couple very rare models that will allow you to get close to the voltages needed and allow you to read the parameters correctly. We use custom-built testing equipment that is the best in the business. We burn in and test power tubes at real voltages, and we test them for shorts, grid leakage, and excessive current draw before and after burn in to help minimize the chances of using your amp as a tube tester. Click here to read more about our test equipment.
So when does a tube go bad? It depends on how picky you are. It's like a tube of toothpaste; Things kind of peter out at the end, but it seems you can always squeeze out a little more. Some products (and audiophiles) are pickier than others. I recommend to folks that want to upgrade to premium new old stock tubes that they do it while their stock tubes are good. That way you have the cheap ones working and available should you decide to sell the pre-amp.The other way tubes age is they become noisy. Tube noise can present itself a number of ways. Sometimes the noise may sound like popcorn popping softly in the background, or it may become a loud roar. It can happen to any tube, including brand new ones. The most common reason that I have found for tubes becoming noisy is the coating on the filament becomes compromised. You can make the noise worse by turning your gear on and off a lot... that's the best way to guarantee trouble with tubes!
ALL tubes are microphonic to a greater or lesser degree. Whether or not that microphonics is audible will depend more on the tube's function in the product, rather than the microphony of the tube itself. In some positions, you will never hear anything, even with the worst tube. In other positions you will hear something even with the best tubes. At that point you make a judgement call: does this level of microphony interfere with my listening enjoyment? 041b061a72